Sanding and restoring a wooden cutting board
A wooden cutting board that has gone rough or dull or is covered in cut marks you restore by sanding it lightly with fine sandpaper, wiping it dust-free and then oiling it generously. An hour of work and 3 hours to let it soak in, and it looks as good as new. That is the big advantage of solid wood over plastic.
Every board you really use picks up marks. That comes with it. But after a few years the surface can go rough, deep scratches can appear or the wood turns dull and grey. With a sheet of sandpaper and a bottle of oil you sort that out yourself.
What do you need?
- Sandpaper grit 120 for deep scratches, and grit 180 or 240 for the finish
- A sanding block, or a piece of wood to fold the paper around
- A damp cloth
- Board oil, and beeswax if you like
- A clean microfibre cloth
Step by step
- Clean the board and let it dry thoroughly. A night upright is ideal. Sanding wet wood does not work well.
- Sand with grit 120 if there are deep scratches or cut marks in it. Always sand along the grain, with even pressure across the whole surface, so you do not sand a dip into it.
- Then sand with grit 180 or 240 until the surface feels smooth again. If there are only light rough patches, you can start with this fine grit straight away.
- Wipe the dust away with a damp cloth. The wood often feels slightly rough again afterwards, because the moisture raises the fibres.
- Let it dry and sand once more, lightly, with the fine grit. Now the surface stays smooth, even when the board gets wet later on.
- Oil it generously. After sanding the wood is bare and takes up a lot of oil. Give it a generous coat, let it soak in for 3 hours and wipe off the excess.
- Repeat the oiling the next day. After that you go back to the normal rhythm of twice a month.
- Finish with beeswax if you like, for extra protection against moisture.
What you can and cannot repair
| Problem | Solution |
|---|---|
| Rough surface | Light sanding with grit 180 or 240, then oil |
| Cut marks and scratches | Sand with 120, finish with 180 or 240, then oil |
| Dull, grey or dry wood | Oil generously, sanding lightly first if needed |
| Stains from beetroot or wine | Light sanding, they often largely disappear |
| Dark patches that stay after sanding | Replace the board |
| A deep crack right through the board | Replace the board |
Preventing is easier
Most damage comes from moisture: a board left lying in the sink, put in the dishwasher or never given any oil. Washing, drying straight away, letting it dry upright and oil twice a month is enough to put sanding off for years. The complete schedule is in Caring for a wooden cutting board.
Frequently asked questions
How often can I sand a wooden cutting board?
With a board of solid wood you can do that often, because each time you only take off a thin layer. On a board of 3 cm or a butcher block of 6 cm you have years of room for that.
Can I sand a bamboo board as well?
Only to a point. Bamboo is made of glued strips with a thin top layer. Sanding too much can expose the glue lines.
Which oil do I use after sanding?
The same as for normal care: a thin, odourless oil that is suitable for food. Read Which oil for a wooden cutting board? for the options.
Does a brush work better than a cloth after sanding?
With a brush you work the oil better into the pores, edges and the juice groove. You wipe off the excess afterwards with a cloth.
